Tagged with sandstone

The Moment: New Year’s Day, Roxborough Park

Half moon, Roxborough State Park, Colorado

Roxborough State Park — located about 45 minutes southwest of Denver — has long been a favorite stomping ground for me, especially in the last 11 years, since my parents moved out that way. It’s quiet, filled with wildlife, and defined by a series of sandstone fins rising upwards of 175 feet over the valley. This is the same geological formation as Red Rocks Amphitheater and Colorado Springs’ Garden of the Gods, only it rises up from the hogbacks in a more hidden, lesser traveled part of the Front Range, making it more intimate and — in my mind — more spectacular.

I had very close friends from Tennessee visiting for New Years, and since we didn’t have time for a run up to Steamboat Springs — or any of the mountains for that matter — I opted to take them out to my parent’s house and walk into the park. As soon as we set off from the house, we were greeted by this scene, of the half moon positioned right in the midst of a formation we’ve always called The Molar. It wasn’t quite as dramatic as the Matterhorn eclipsing the moon, but it was cool nonetheless.

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Colorado National Monument at Dawn

Colorado National Monument at Dawn

(Click on images for larger version … especially this shot)

Falling a bit behind in updating the blog from our Southwest Colorado trip. Things take priority sometimes: you know, like a full-time job and life with a six-month old. Funny how every spare moment — mornings, nights, weekends — I want to spend with her. Just finished getting her down for bed and now I’ll be off on a business trip for three days. So it goes.

Colorado National Monument at Dawn

But odds are, I’ll have regular updates through the end of the year with this trip, next week’s trips to Steamboat Springs and Snowmass, and then our mid-November journey to Kauai. Good to have new material, for sure.

On the Sunday morning of our trip, I awoke at dawn … groggy, gross and overheated. The hot evening and sleeping on the ground had left me feeling less than ideal. Now would have been a great time for coffee (or a bucket of ice to dunk my head in), but again, we weren’t too adept at this camping thing, so we didn’t have any way to make coffee. We brought breakfast: 12 crummy Target cereal bars. That was it. Grumble, grumble, grumble.

Colorado National Monument at Dawn

Varenna, however, was her usual spry self. Kids can sleep anywhere. In the future, we’ll camp because of her, not because of us. It won’t be because we thoroughly enjoy it (just being honest: after all, this was the first time we’d camped since we got engaged) or because we love making cowboy coffee over a fireplace. We’ll camp to experience her reaction to it. And that’s assuming she’ll love it (after seeing how she is in the outdoors, I’m fairly certain she will). And then as a result, we will love camping.

We set out along Rim Rock Drive around 7am, catching some of the most brilliant golden light I’ve seen in Colorado.

Colorado National Monument at Dawn

We experimented with lens flares, shooting into the sun, and comparing the way the Canon 5D Mark II and the Canon 40D handled the light. In fact, in some instances, the same shot came out better on the Canon 40D (I have no idea why).

Colorado National Monument at Dawn

By 8:30am we were back at the campground packing up. Onward through the rest of the park along Rim Rock Drive, a stop for brunch in Grand Junction, and then a two-hour drive to Ridgway at the foot of the San Juan Mountains. The drive was uneventful through the monument, but twice we heard a weird knocking sound — once pulling into a turnout and again on a steep switchback. Both times while turning. We didn’t think anything of it.

Colorado National Monument at Dawn

But a mile outside Delta, Colorado — at a speed of 65 mph — it occurred again and there was no way to ignore it. A bang followed by a high, straining whir of the engine. I began to slow down significantly, and noticed the steering wheel was like lead. It took about a quarter mile to stop in the shoulder, but I got it there in one piece. Varenna slept through the whole thing.

Was it a blowout? Nope. A quick walk around the vehicle disproved that theory. When I restarted the car, the transmission light, the oil light, the check engine light and the parking brake light were all on (even though the parking brake wasn’t engaged). That helps.

Colorado National Monument at Dawn

Long story short, it was the power-steering belt. It flew off because the mechanics who replaced it the week before forgot to clamp it down. For the entire drive from Denver down I-70, up Rim Rock Drive, around Colorado National Monument (alone) in the dead of night under a full moon, this belt spun and somehow didn’t fly off. Fortunately, it didn’t destroy anything else in the engine when it came off, and after a tow to Montrose and a drop off at the airport, the three of us were in a rental car headed to Ridgway to salvage our itinerary. We arrived in one piece at the Chipeta Sun Lodge, the perfect place to chill out after such an episode.

By Monday morning, the belt was replaced, and by noon we’d retrieved the car and were headed to Ouray and then Telluride. Vacation saved.

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Colorado National Monument – Under a Full Moon

Colorado National Monument under a full moon(Click on image for a larger version)

Its amazing that in the absence of sunlight, you can have seemingly limitless opportunity to make a dynamic composition. I love night photography, and would like to do more of it. In Italy, I set up my first (and to this day, only) star-trail shot: a 22-minute exposure of the heavens revolving around the North Star above a set of conical farm houses in Puglia. (Man, what a battery killer). To shoot at night, you need a tripod, a slow shutter speed and a helluva lotta patience. But it is so rewarding when you can take a break from the pace of life and document the world carrying on with itself. Stars streak, tail lights race, and the true complexion of a nighttime landscape — the one our diurnal can’t compute — is revealed.

Along the side of Rim Rock Drive in Colorado National Monument, my challenge was the wind. Even with my tripod, the camera was moving in the stiff breeze, and multiple long exposures had to be dumped. It was enough to test my patience, and contemplate buying a heavy-duty tripod (ugh, the weight).

Colorado National Monument and camping under a full moon
Also testing my patience: my inability to get a level horizon (damn you diurnal eyes!) and the difficulty in finding a compelling foreground along the road side. I have a pretty stifling fear of mountain lions (not to mention sprained ankles in remote locales) so I wasn’t about to head off down a trail on my own this night. Nope. Stay close to the car (also a nice windbreak), set the bulb off to open the shutter, and keep an eye over your shoulder — that was the routine.

Colorado National Monument at night under a full moon
After 90 minutes under the silver full moon, I returned to Hailey at camp. Inspired by the results, she opted to compose a series of shots of me at the campground picnic table with the tent by my side (where Varenna was sleeping soundly) and the full moon above. She got great results.

The night was hot, even with the breeze. Tucking into our sleeping bags felt like we were being saran-wrapped, even after we removed the rain fly to let the tent breathe. Varenna awoke once, so for her, this first camping experience was a success. As for her mom and dad? The night was brutal, but we’ll probably not remember it as much as the shots we got under that amazing moon.

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Colorado National Monument – At Dusk

(Click on images for a larger view)

I’ve been to about 75% of Colorado in my lifetime. This is in large part because of a three-year stint as the editor of the Colorado Official State Vacation Guide, and also because of a life-long quest of mine to hike in every wilderness area in the state. Blank spots on my personal map are getting fewer and fewer, and most of them are either grasslands on the Eastern Plains or high-altitude desert canyons on the Western Slope.

The trip a few weeks ago was intended to fill out my portfolio: either some of those blank spaces, or places where I don’t have good enough images (or even digital images at all, for that matter). On top of that, my portfolio — taken as a whole — had nothing when it came to desert photography. Kind of odd, seeing that desert light is remarkable (Ansel Adams taught us all that), and the Colorado Plateau is only four hours west of Denver.

So at Colorado National Monument, I wanted to resolve that. Situated near the border with Utah, this wedge-shaped national monument has Moab-like scenery but without the crowds. We were arriving in the evening on a Saturday night in summer, and we had no problems finding a campsite. The drive into park (above) is stunning. How more people don’t know about this place is a bit of a mystery.

So as we tooled around the campsite and pitched the tent, I was optimistic about getting a few great images to add to my collection.

And yet, I needed to be a dad, too. After all, this was a family vacation, and Varenna’s normal bedtime is right at magic hour (8pm). The usual nature-photography routine of scouting the best composition and waiting for the ideal light to occur just wasn’t in the cards. This is a little girl who likes changing scenery, whether that’s the comforting motion of riding along for a hike, or just the simple act of picking her up when she’s frustrated with rolling over. Sitting still and letting the earth spin on its axis doesn’t hold a lot of interest for her.


But here is where I will brag a little bit (OK, a lot). Varenna was awesome . I think she was just delighted with the fresh air and the fact that she wasn’t still buckled into her car seat. After a quick dinner of Subway sandwiches at our campground (and a whole jar of pureed sweet potatoes for her), we found our way to the Window Rock Trail, a short jaunt through the piñon pines to a magnificent view of a large crumbling arch and the Grand Valley below (above left). Hailey art directed me here and there (“can you take a shot of that tree? It would be great to get the canyon in there, too”). From there, we watched the nearly full moon rise over Monument Canyon before the sandstone cliffs and the farm land below were cast in orange by the setting sun.


Varenna loaned us another 20 minutes to hop in the car and make a run for Independence Monument before all daylight faded, but before we even got there, a view of Upper Wedding Canyon appeared just as the sky evolved into a light pink hue (above). Rim Rock Drive — the 23-mile winding road that skirts the monument’s canyons from above — had barely enough room for me to pull over and set up the tripod, but I did my best. Then again, there was no one driving the road at this hour.

Canyons are incredibly difficult subjects because of the high-degree of contrast. Where it’s sunny, it’s very bright. Where it’s shaded, it’s very dark. So scenery tends to be blown to bits and muffled all in the same composition. But at blue hour, things were a bit more balanced, and quite a bit more subdued.


It was too dark by the time we reached Independence Monument, and our little girl was beginning to show signs of classic Baby Manic Instability before bedtime (gushing with delight one minute, cranky the next). But she was fairing well. Again, this was all a test — a trial run to see how travel with our baby would go. And as we pulled back into the campground, my art director had a great idea: “I’ll put Varenna to bed. You should go and photograph the canyons under the full moon.”


View Larger Map

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I Love Colorado

(Click on images for a larger version).

In the coming weeks, I’ll be posting a lot of new imagery of my home state of Colorado. Last Saturday to this past Friday, Hailey, Varenna and I did a swing through Southwest Colorado — our little girl’s first true vacation. We saw some of the few places we have not experienced yet (Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado National Monument) plus some old favorites (Telluride, Ridgway, Ouray, Pagosa Springs).


Southwest Colorado is God’s country. I don’t say that lightly or because its late at night and I am out of words. It is simply a staggering place. The landscape is a beautiful dichotomy: overwhelming and intimate at the same time. When you are not picking your jaw up off the ground because of the vaulted peaks, plummeting waterfalls and sheer canyons, your finding yourself in a cozy valley or by a fresh gurgling river, thinking about retirement because the place is so livable.

Mesa Verde, Square Tower House, cliff dwelling, Colorado, Ancestral Puebloan, Anasazi

On this trip we visited Mesa Verde National Park for the first time since we were kids (Hailey was 7 when she visited with her family, I was 2). Until now, the context of Colorado’s indigenous people was little more than knowledge to me. As an editor and as a writer, I knew quite a bit about their civilization and its rise and subsequent migration away from the mesa. But knowing and understanding are two different things sometimes. You have to go there to truly visualize and appreciate the systems that connected the dwellings and people of the mesa.

Here is a Google Map of the entire trip’s itinerary:


View Larger Map

I’ll have more — plenty more — to come in the next few weeks. Lots more Colorado travel coming up (fall color in Steamboat and Snowmass) and then the year’s big trip around Thanksgiving: Kauai.

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