Tag Archives: Canon 5D MK II

Staying at Travaasa Hana: Garden View Suites

Travaasa Hana Resort Hotel, Maui

In 2003, shortly after a crazy wedding that included a bridesmaid going into labor at our rehearsal dinner (and her husband, the best man/my brother, rushing her away to deliver their first born), my wife Hailey and I headed to Hawaii for our honeymoon. We had initially considered Trinidad & Tobago, but when a travel agent specializing in T&T told us to go to Hawaii instead (thereby giving up any hope of a commission), we saw it as a sign: This place really must live up to the hype.

Still high off the pura vida of a 2002 trip to Costa Rica, I insisted we focus on the wet sides of the Big Island and Maui. I was fascinated by jungles, wanted nothing more than to see waterfalls, and was happy to dodge the crowds and trade in postcard beach scenes for rocky coastlines and black-sand. I was also, sadly, going through a tropical shirt phase thanks to a sale at Mervyn’s. (Yes, I just wrote that).

Long story short, we ended up spending five nights at the Palms Cliff House north of Hilo, and four nights at the Hotel Hana Maui, now rebranded as the Travaasa Hana. It was time to return, family in tow, and reconnect with the rugged coastline and end-of-the-earth splendor of Hana. Continue reading

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Dining in Alba and Barolo Wine Country

La Libera restaurant, Alba, Italy

Planning a vacation with friends can be a study in contrasts. In the build-up to our trip to Piedmont, Adam contacted a friend of his father’s, a wine buyer who knows the area well. What he responded with was a list of wines to look for, and a roster of restaurants to fill nearly two whole weeks of eating.

beef tongue, tajarin al ragu, italy

We both quickly identified our top two choices, the one’s we ought to make reservations for in advance, and they each revealed a bit about our character. Adam was fired up about Ristorante Bovio in La Morra, a white-linen bastion of class and elegance. I was keen on La Libera in Alba, a place that emphasized a modern and creative approach to traditional Piedmontese cuisine.

Now, Adam enjoys wearing a jacket and tie. I prefer to leave my shirt untucked.

Yin and yang.

Bovio Friday night. La Libera Saturday night.

Continue reading

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To Barolo Wine Country – La Morra, Piedmont, Italy

La Morra, as seen from the vineyards of Villa Carita, Italy

From Orta San Giulio, we headed south the next morning, destined for the town of La Morra in the Barolo wine country. For all four of us, this was the reason for our trip: seeing this legendary land of undulating vineyards, robust wine and extraordinary food. We’d read Matt Kramer’s cookbook, A Passion for Piedmont, cover to cover, and Adam had intensively researched the area’s wine. The more I learned, the more I began to wonder why this region wasn’t more competitive with Tuscany from a traveler’s standpoint.

The whole trip came about in an unusual way — a reverse engineering of sorts. Continue reading

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Sacro Monte + Villa Crespi, Orta San Giulio

Adam Huggins ascends into heaven, Orta San Giulio

From Piazza Motta, a cobbled street leads uphill to a sunflower-hued church. Rising from the church’s apex is a statue of Christ, who is flanked by two angels. His arms are open, his head is back, and he is facing the lake. Below him is a faded fresco so in need of restoration that it accurately depicts nothingness.

This is clearly a corner of Italy that has yet to benefit from the restoration industry that decorates much of the country’s skylines with cranes. In the basilica on the island, it was depressing to see how many frescos were etched with the initials and graffiti of assholes. It was art desecration. Vandalism. And it had been done most likely by tourists, judging by the volume and off-the-cuff, hurried nature of each scribe. Someone’s initials here, profanities there. You’d expect this sort of thing on a big oak in a city park. But on a 14th century masterpiece? What possesses people? Continue reading

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To the Island: Isola San Giulio, Italy

Boat and Isola San Giulio seen from Orta San Giulio, Italy

I have been a firm believer that a landscape is at its most aesthetically pleasing when its left untouched. But the Italians have truly challenged this notion for me. Throughout the country beautiful hills, idyllic lakes, rugged coastlines and verdant plains are rendered even more photogenic by old buildings, artful decay and pastel colors. Continue reading

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Escape to Orta San Giulio, Piedmont, Italy

Boats in Orta San Giulio on Lake Orta, Piedmont, Italy

Italy at once perplexes and enchants me. I can’t speak the language, the roadways are impossible to navigate without GPS, and this guy has been the on-again/off-again prime minister for 14 years.

Then again, it is easily the most densely packed pleasure palace on earth. Soaring wines and delicious mountain terrain. Colorful people and jolly little villages. Sinful cuisine and heavenly religious art. Cappuccinos. Ferraris on the autostrade. Parmigano reggiano.

When I’m not there, I daydream about it constantly. When I am there, I don’t believe I’m there… I’m like a stunned bird who just flew into a window. Continue reading

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An Evening in Zürich

Fraumunster and boats on the Linnat River, Zurich, Switzerland

I was in Zürich for one night with my wife and an exhausted toddler. It was the tail-end of a two-week train-bound vacation that had been extraordinary, but grueling. And Switzerland had squeezed our pocketbooks for all we were worth. Bringing our little caravan to an end in one of the world’s most expensive cities seemed like a bad idea. Our collective mentality seemed to be: “Let’s just check into our overpriced, 2-star student-project hotel and hide under our pillows until its time to fly home.” Continue reading

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Photographing Great Sand Dunes National Park – Part 2 (Into the Dune Field)

Footprints in the sand, Great Sand Dunes National Park, Colorado

So I set forth into the Great Sand Dunes with 32 ounces of water and my camera backpack. Climbing into the dunes is an exercise in deception. The approach is easy — perhaps a quarter mile over tightly packed sands. The first incline is like a slap in the face. “Oh yeah. I forgot … one step forward, half step back in sinking sand.” Continue reading

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Sosua, Dominican Republic

Sosua, Dominican Republic

In Colorado, where I live, you can see forever. Drive in from our airport (whose code should be BFE, not DEN), and you can easily see Pikes Peak some 80 miles south, and Longs Peak, some 55 miles to the north. Compass points of comfort — I grew up always knowing my place in this big, wide landscape.

Sosua, Dominican Republic

I bring this up because the Dominican Republic couldn’t be any more different in this regard. Driving along the North Coast Highway, from Puerto Plata to Playa Grande, you hardly ever see the ocean even though its within spitting distance to the left. Trees and development obscure the view most of the way, with only a few tantalizing glimpses of cerulean blue here and there. Continue reading

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The Moment: New Year’s Day, Roxborough Park

Half moon, Roxborough State Park, Colorado

Roxborough State Park — located about 45 minutes southwest of Denver — has long been a favorite stomping ground for me, especially in the last 11 years, since my parents moved out that way. It’s quiet, filled with wildlife, and defined by a series of sandstone fins rising upwards of 175 feet over the valley. This is the same geological formation as Red Rocks Amphitheater and Colorado Springs’ Garden of the Gods, only it rises up from the hogbacks in a more hidden, lesser traveled part of the Front Range, making it more intimate and — in my mind — more spectacular.

I had very close friends from Tennessee visiting for New Years, and since we didn’t have time for a run up to Steamboat Springs — or any of the mountains for that matter — I opted to take them out to my parent’s house and walk into the park. As soon as we set off from the house, we were greeted by this scene, of the half moon positioned right in the midst of a formation we’ve always called The Molar. It wasn’t quite as dramatic as the Matterhorn eclipsing the moon, but it was cool nonetheless.

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