Filed under Mountains

How to Photograph the Matterhorn

how to photograph the matterhorn

Imagine you took the world’s 50 most famous mountains — Everest, K2, Denali, Fuji — and put their image on a flash card. Now imagine that you’ve flipped through the entire deck and quizzed yourself. Could you name most of these mountains based on their profile alone? The unique silhouette they cut into the sky? Odds are, only two of those mountains would be gimmes. Kilimanjaro and the Matterhorn. Even Kilimanjaro might be a maybe, but the Matterhorn? Their ain’t another mountain on earth that rivals its facade.

On the train ride into Zermatt last summer, I had my back to the town as we rolled up the tracks. What I saw in reverse was the sight of every passenger leaning out the train windows seeking their first glance of the Matterhorn. At one point, I turned around, looked up the hillside, and bam: there it was. The sight of it made my heart skip a beat. I’m not kidding.

Photographing the Matterhorn is easy. Creating a unique image that hasn’t been done before … now that’s hard. Here are some things I learned on how to photograph the Matterhorn during my all-too-brief stay in Zermatt last June. Continue reading

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The Moment: New Year’s Day, Roxborough Park

Half moon, Roxborough State Park, Colorado

Roxborough State Park — located about 45 minutes southwest of Denver — has long been a favorite stomping ground for me, especially in the last 11 years, since my parents moved out that way. It’s quiet, filled with wildlife, and defined by a series of sandstone fins rising upwards of 175 feet over the valley. This is the same geological formation as Red Rocks Amphitheater and Colorado Springs’ Garden of the Gods, only it rises up from the hogbacks in a more hidden, lesser traveled part of the Front Range, making it more intimate and — in my mind — more spectacular.

I had very close friends from Tennessee visiting for New Years, and since we didn’t have time for a run up to Steamboat Springs — or any of the mountains for that matter — I opted to take them out to my parent’s house and walk into the park. As soon as we set off from the house, we were greeted by this scene, of the half moon positioned right in the midst of a formation we’ve always called The Molar. It wasn’t quite as dramatic as the Matterhorn eclipsing the moon, but it was cool nonetheless.

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Switzerland: Desaturated, and in Black and White

A banner cloud drapes around the summit of the Matterhorn near Zermatt, Switzerland.

(Click on images for a larger view)

I recently spent two weeks touring around Switzerland with my wife and our one-year-old daughter. It was a magnificent trip — one of those get-it-out-of-my-system-now kinds of trips while Varenna is young and portable. Ha! That’s at least what we thought when we booked the trip in January. She’s a bit more … mobile, shall we say.

But we had a very good time, and ultimately, I was pleasantly surprised with the images I returned home with. In the moment, we both were a bit distracted trying to keep our daughter entertained, engaged, and safe. We worked hard every hour of the trip, just not on photography. Or so it seemed.

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Fall Color at the Maroon Bells

The Maroon Bells in fall color outside Aspen, Colorado(Click on images for a larger view)

I’ve struggled to photograph the Maroon Bells in the past. Struggled because of two things: (1) everybody has photographed them and an original angle is getting more and more rare, and (2) they perfectly face to the east and, as a result, are often 2 stops more bright than their surroundings, making an even exposure especially tricky.

A six-month-old girl plays near the Maroon Bells outside Aspen, Colorado

But then my wife took our daughter there for a day trip this past October (I was attending the Colorado Governor’s Conference on Tourism in nearby Snowmass) and she returned with a series of astonishingly original photos of the Bells. How did she overcome my two stumbling blocks?

Solution #1: visit the Maroon Bells with an adorable baby and let her eat the dirt on the shore of Maroon Lake — original photos abound — and …

Solution #2: visit in the fall when the sunlight is slanted and the exposure is more even.

The Maroon Bells and Maroon Lake in fall color outside Aspen, Colorado

Our daughter’s middle name is Autumn, and this being her first fall, well, it was especially meaningful to have the two of them join me in Snowmass for the conference. After the day’s sessions, I’d take Varenna off of Mom’s hands for a little bit, and go for a short jaunt through the aspens with her near the hotel. She’d squeal and kick with delight at being outside, at facing forward in the Baby Bjorn carrier, and at the sights and sounds and smells of the woods. She’s a Coloradan by birth, and already she is acting like one.

Enjoying the Maroon Bells in autumn, Aspen, Colorado

So when the conference ended and I had a little freedom to wander, we returned to Maroon Bells as a family and spent a few hours in the aspen glades and along the lake shore, watching a blizzard of leaves flutter over the lake as autumn had one last gasp before winter.

Close-up of the Maroon Bells outside Aspen, Colorado

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Graspin’ Aspen 2010 – Steamboat Springs

Since 2007, Hailey and I have made a special long-weekend trip in the fall to Steamboat Springs, Colorado. Yep, the same Steamboat Springs that seems to grace every other post on this blog. I know. We go there a lot. However, it just keeps revealing itself to me in new ways, each time.

Each time we go there, whether its in July, the dead of winter, or even mud season at the tail end of April, this wholesome little cow-town with a massive ski resort glued to its hip seems to get more and more nuanced for us. With all due respect, I don’t think many other Colorado towns would stay fresh after so many visits.

This trip, however, had a different complexion to it, and that’s because of three ingredients: 1) our six-month-old daughter Varenna (now eight months old); 2) our good friends Tim, Lexi and their 19-month-old daughter Cora; and 3) our friend Jenny, who is expecting her first in March with her husband Matt, my best friend. This made September’s trip — dare I say it — a “family friendly adventure.” God, what a hideous cliche, but that’s the new reality. We get excited about places where our rambunctious little girl can be her most rambunctious, and playmates are an added bonus.

For the previous two falls, we’ve done this fall color trip with the Jordayzerton crew — the aforementioned folks, plus Stu and Shannon Kilzer. Unfortunately, this year, it didn’t quite work out that we could get everyone to come. Matt had a fencing tournament, and Stu and Shannon had a family emergency. Even the Lambertons had to head back early, but all was not lost. By Saturday afternoon, we did our traditional drive up Buffalo Pass to drink in the endless expanse of golden aspens that drape across the Zirkel Mountains.

We’ve had better years for color, in particular, the 2008 trip when every tree was 100% vibrant yellow, gold and red all at the same time (must have something to do with the dry spell we’ve had since July). But whatever we lacked for in this trip was made up for by our two girls, Varenna and Cora.

Their curiosity and enthusiasm for being outside was infectious. Varenna even figured out what my camera does. At one point while she was in the Baby Bjorn carrier, we ran down a road while I held the camera out and fired shots back at the two of us (third from top). She quickly picked up on how her face appeared on the camera back, which inspired only more giggles. Daddy’s little girl …

Tim and Lexi parted ways with us from Buffalo Pass, with their Saturday night of driving back to Denver in front of them. Through Monday, it was just us and Jenny, hanging out at the condo, going for walks, and letting Varenna explore things like aspen leaves with her fingers … until they ended up in her mouth. Such is travel with an infant, but if this weekend was any indication of the future — of seeking out other kids, other new parents, and laid back activities like going to the bookstore for two hours — that’s fine with me.

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Telluride, Colorado – Part 2

Wilson Peak and a series of barns near Telluride, Colorado
Before sunrise, I was awake, packed and bundled up for first-light photography of Wilson Peak. Located just southwest of Telluride, this perfectly sculpted mountain has graced its fair share of Coors commercials, and for good reason. Few mountains embody the drama of the Rockies better.

Sunshine Mountain and Lizard Head Peak near Telluride, Colorado

I knew of one good vantage point — Sunshine Campground, located just off Highway 149. But from that angle, the peak is a bit tucked back and not nearly as dramatic. So, I decided to head to the Telluride Regional Airport, which is situated on a plateau across from the peak. As light crested the San Juan Mountains, I headed up the winding road, passing one drool-worthy/scorn-inducing estate after another.

Wilson Peak and a barn near Telluride, Colorado

My only problem was that the foreground was still obscured in a long shadow, which limited me to my long telephoto lens, a fixed 200mm. And while I got some great shots — like the second image in this post as well as this one of Wilson Peak — my composition opportunities were limited. So, off the plateau, and up to Sunshine Campground, a good 20 minute drive. By the time I got there, my coffee was gone and that rush hour into Telluride from points south was in full force. I’d shoot some and then return to the airport road … I’d seen some awesome barns along the route that I wanted to work with.

Wilson Peak and a barn near Telluride, Colorado

In 2002, Hailey and I camped at Sunshine Campground in the middle of Colorado’s worst wildfire season on record. Two weeks earlier, we had unwittingly rafted into the out-of-control Coal Seam Fire in Glenwood Springs with my parents just as it roared over a ridge and down toward the confluence of the Roaring Fork and Colorado Rivers. Stranded, the four of us spent the night at a family friend’s place in Carbondale before heading over Independence Pass the next day, only to see the volcanic-like plume of smoke coming from the Hayman Fire, which was on its second and most destructive day. That evening, my parents’ house in southwest Denver was put on notice for possible evacuation.

The base of Cornet Falls, just outside Telluride, Colorado

Their status was in limbo for five weeks as the Hayman Fire advanced, retreated, spread, double-backed, exploded, and played tricks on fire forecasters. To this day it was the most unsettling summer I’ve experienced.

By the time our Telluride camping trip arrived, the Missionary Ridge Fire in Durango had flared up, casting haze all over Southwest Colorado. Governor Bill Owens got flack for saying that “all of Colorado is burning,” but there was some truth to it at the time. No matter where you went in the Rockies that summer, you found smoke.

On a personal note, something was burning a hole in my pocket on that trip — an engagement ring. I’d saved for it, I’d asked Hailey’s parents for permission, and I was going to pop the question regardless of the haze and smoke, probably on our hike into the Mount Sneffels Wilderness. But I didn’t quite get that far — on a short 1-hour hike to Cornet Falls (above and below), I popped the question.

Cornet Falls and Bridal Veil Falls, both near Telluride, Colorado

So after I shot a bunch of images of the barns and Wilson Peak, I returned to the New Sheridan to meet Hailey and Varenna for the journey to Cornet Falls — a nostalgic must for us. We set Varenna in the Baby Bjorn and made the steep but short climb to the burgundy box canyon falls. Varenna giggled, flailed her arms and kicked repeatedly, as she usually does on hikes. But I took it as a sign of something more cosmic. Here we were, returning to the falls for the first time since that amazing moment, and we were bringing our child — and she was thrilled to be there.

Moments after reaching the falls, Renna fell asleep. It was a very sweet sight … curled up on Hailey’s lap, with blue socks on her hands to keep them warm. Eight years had passed since the proposal — a lifetime it had seemed — and now things were advancing even faster with the trajectory of Varenna’s life and development. We hiked back out, and she awoke with smiles as we passed the creek.

The Sneffels Range and a chairlift as seen from Telluride Mountain Resort, Colorado.

We wrapped up the Telluride portion of our trip with a ride up the gondola to Mountain Village for pizza in an empty piazza. American ski resorts and their phony European charm are rather hilarious places to be. However, I must say, on this day, the San Juan Mountains surrounding Telluride and Mountain Village looked a little like the Dolomites. With the gondola speeding over the piazza, with our waiter actually being Italian, with a glass of cold red wine on a warm day, could it be?

Nah….


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Time Out … Fall Color Preview


Going to briefly interrupt the Southwest Colorado trip with a quick preview of this past week’s trips to Steamboat Springs, Snowmass and Aspen for fall color in the Rockies. We usually have an autumn trip to Steamboat, but this year we added another to the middle part of the state. It’s pretty cool when you can compare and contrast fall color locales in the span of a week. Steamboat was a bit past prime, and a little less vibrant than previous years (but still gorgeous), while Vail (which we only passed through) had all the colors of the aspen spectrum.

We were in Snowmass so I could attend the Colorado Governor’s Conference on Tourism. I spent much of the time in conference rooms, banquets and exhibit halls, while Hailey and Varenna got to explore. By Friday, however, I was liberated from the indoors and allowed a few hours to see Maroon Bells (above), the most famous mountains in Colorado, if not North America. They were stunning.

More to come … but first I’d like to plow through the rest of Telluride, Mesa Verde and Pagosa Springs.

And for the record, after these past three months, I am more in love with Colorado than ever before.

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Telluride, Colorado – Part 1

The New Sheridan Hotel in Telluride, Colorado(Click on images for a larger version).

There is something to be said for living in a fantasy world. Check that: there is something to be said for visiting a fantasy world … for a few days.

Telluride defies description — at least one without hyperbole. Such as “the prettiest town in the United States.” (OK, there. I said it.) But for all of its majestic grandeur and quaint homeliness, it is a not a place that one would call “down-to-earth,” “approachable,” or “realistic.” We toured an open house — a 2500-square-foot Victorian two blocks off main — that was going for $3.2 million. I witnessed a morning rush hour on quiet little Lizard Head Pass that consisted of commuters driving in from Rico (28 miles south), and maybe even Dolores (67 miles south) — all flocking to this enchanting little town to work in the wine bars, day spas and five-star hotels. How this community functions is a bit of a mystery, but it does function. It functions magnificently. I want to go back. I’d put it on top of my U.S. destination list all over again.

Hotel room in the New Sheridan Hotel in Telluride, Colorado

And incredibly, in late August, it wasn’t too steep. We stayed at the New Sheridan Hotel on Main Street (that’s Varenna in our room, above) for less than $175. In the middle of winter, that would go for about $335. We ate a superb dinner, one of the best meals of the year, at 221 South Oak Restaurant for the same price as pretty much any nice sit-down restaurant in Denver. Hey: we were on vacation. Why not? And when you consider the crappy room we paid more for in Mesa Verde (not to mention the regrettable $13 “Navajo taco” Aramark doled out there), Telluride seemed like — gasp! — a great value.

Main Street in Telluride, Colorado

Still, this thought about people actually living there would not leave my head. Maybe it was because the night before, while eating dinner in an empty dining room at the Chipeta Sun Lodge, I told Hailey I could retire to Ridgway. It is gorgeous there as well, but it also felt cozy, livable, and … realistic. Telluride? It just didn’t add up how you could get to a point in your life where that was attainable.

Full moon over Telluride, Colorado

But ask me now what the highlight of our late-summer trip was, and I wouldn’t hesitate. It was this place. I’m a sucker for massive mountains, waterfalls spouting off in every direction, lush greenery everywhere you go. I like my scenery without subtly, and if I can have a medium-rare elk chop with asparagus and lingonberries for dinner beneath that landscape? Sold.

Panorama of Telluride, Colorado under a full moon(Hello, I’m a great big panorama … click on me for larger version)

Night one concluded with an amazing scene on Main Street. A full moon rising over the San Juan’s at the end of the valley. It was one of those stirring scenes you can’t turn away from. They happen all the time in Colorado, but this one was especially gripping. I stood out in the middle of the street with my camera on a tripod, firing off exposures trying to get it just right. Trying to put in perspective the magnificent beauty of these mountains … until a drunk stumbled out of the New Sheridan and asked me for a good burger.

Like I said … it’s nice visiting a fantasy world for a few days.

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Ridgway, Ouray, Red Mountain Pass and Dallas Divide

Despite our unfortunate auto mishap outside Delta, we were able to recover our vacation in quick fashion, and it was a good thing, too. It had been since 2002 that Hailey and I had traveled to this pocket of the state, and without a doubt in my mind, it is the finest corner of Colorado. Look at a map, and draw an imaginary circle from Ridgway to Red Mountain Pass to Lizard Head Pass. That’s the spot. It is simply sublime, and unfortunately, we don’t swing through these parts too often.

Our evening in Ridgway was spent mostly at the Chipeta Sun Lodge, a fantastic adobe inn where Varenna got back into her rhythm. She took a bath, ate some pears, and rolled around on a blanket for a few hours … exactly what she needed.

The next morning, we walked around the downtown, a sleepy but interesting place which continues to milk the fact that True Grit was filmed here in 1968 (turns out the Coen Brothers and Matt Damon have remade the film and it will be released around Christmas … ummm, awesome). It was brisk and soggy, and any opportunity to photograph my favorite mountain in the state — Mount Sneffles, seriously, what its called — was foiled. But we were soon on the road back to Montrose to retrieve our repaired car, and soon after, we reached Ouray, one of Colorado’s most phenomenal towns.

Situated in a box canyon, Ouray is the best place to get an introduction to the San Juan Mountains. You get a taste here, and then you can dive in for the more amazing scenery in pretty much any direction. Chocolate- and burgundy-colored cliffs rise to the west and east, and U.S. Highway 550 switchbacks up a steep slope to its south. Two waterfalls pour into the town; one visible, the other nestled in a box canyon just on the outskirts. We found an incredible little taco stand on Main St. and ate lunch al fresco with the locals. After wandering the downtown for half an hour, we hopped back in the car and opted to press on further south. This trip was increasingly about filling in the blank spots on our map, and for Hailey, Red Mountain Pass was a drive she’d yet to experience.

Just beyond Ouray, the highway twists and turns up a seemingly convoluted course until its two lanes are clinging to a cliff side. This drive is hell in a snowstorm, and I hope I never have to experience it. In fact, there is a memorial here to three snowplow drivers — Robert F. Miller, Terry Kishbaugh and Eddie Imel — who died from avalanches while servicing the road. Even in summer, its sketchy, but the stunning vistas and overflowing waterfalls make it absolutely worth it.

Above the most dangerous stretch, the highway weaves passed a creek stained with ore (below). Just beyond is Red Mountain (pictured above), a massive lump of a mountain with a magnificent red stain on its bare face. Yes, this place was heavily mined, and I would have preferred to see it before it was touched by industry, but nonetheless, it is still a majestic and wild place despite the occasional mine heap.

Already we were pushing the limits of Varenna’s patience in the car seat, and we still had to double back to Ridgway and wrap all the way around to Telluride for the night. Beyond Ouray we passed emerald ranch land speckled with hay bales, and soon after Varenna fell asleep, we climbed up Dallas Divide, my favorite stretch of scenery in the state.

The conditions weren’t quite what I was hoping for. Spreading out for miles is Ralph Lauren’s ranch, an incredible piece of rolling property covered in aspens and gamble oak that lead up to pine forest and eventually the broken summits of the Sneffels Range. It’s these mountains that are often used as the hallmark of Colorado. They’re massive, rugged, daunting and yet pleasantly green and purple in color — a nice dichotomy that pretty much sums up the Rockies. But on this day they were draped in clouds. I would have to get that ideal shot of the Sneffels Range another day.


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Colorado National Monument – At Dusk

(Click on images for a larger view)

I’ve been to about 75% of Colorado in my lifetime. This is in large part because of a three-year stint as the editor of the Colorado Official State Vacation Guide, and also because of a life-long quest of mine to hike in every wilderness area in the state. Blank spots on my personal map are getting fewer and fewer, and most of them are either grasslands on the Eastern Plains or high-altitude desert canyons on the Western Slope.

The trip a few weeks ago was intended to fill out my portfolio: either some of those blank spaces, or places where I don’t have good enough images (or even digital images at all, for that matter). On top of that, my portfolio — taken as a whole — had nothing when it came to desert photography. Kind of odd, seeing that desert light is remarkable (Ansel Adams taught us all that), and the Colorado Plateau is only four hours west of Denver.

So at Colorado National Monument, I wanted to resolve that. Situated near the border with Utah, this wedge-shaped national monument has Moab-like scenery but without the crowds. We were arriving in the evening on a Saturday night in summer, and we had no problems finding a campsite. The drive into park (above) is stunning. How more people don’t know about this place is a bit of a mystery.

So as we tooled around the campsite and pitched the tent, I was optimistic about getting a few great images to add to my collection.

And yet, I needed to be a dad, too. After all, this was a family vacation, and Varenna’s normal bedtime is right at magic hour (8pm). The usual nature-photography routine of scouting the best composition and waiting for the ideal light to occur just wasn’t in the cards. This is a little girl who likes changing scenery, whether that’s the comforting motion of riding along for a hike, or just the simple act of picking her up when she’s frustrated with rolling over. Sitting still and letting the earth spin on its axis doesn’t hold a lot of interest for her.


But here is where I will brag a little bit (OK, a lot). Varenna was awesome . I think she was just delighted with the fresh air and the fact that she wasn’t still buckled into her car seat. After a quick dinner of Subway sandwiches at our campground (and a whole jar of pureed sweet potatoes for her), we found our way to the Window Rock Trail, a short jaunt through the piñon pines to a magnificent view of a large crumbling arch and the Grand Valley below (above left). Hailey art directed me here and there (“can you take a shot of that tree? It would be great to get the canyon in there, too”). From there, we watched the nearly full moon rise over Monument Canyon before the sandstone cliffs and the farm land below were cast in orange by the setting sun.


Varenna loaned us another 20 minutes to hop in the car and make a run for Independence Monument before all daylight faded, but before we even got there, a view of Upper Wedding Canyon appeared just as the sky evolved into a light pink hue (above). Rim Rock Drive — the 23-mile winding road that skirts the monument’s canyons from above — had barely enough room for me to pull over and set up the tripod, but I did my best. Then again, there was no one driving the road at this hour.

Canyons are incredibly difficult subjects because of the high-degree of contrast. Where it’s sunny, it’s very bright. Where it’s shaded, it’s very dark. So scenery tends to be blown to bits and muffled all in the same composition. But at blue hour, things were a bit more balanced, and quite a bit more subdued.


It was too dark by the time we reached Independence Monument, and our little girl was beginning to show signs of classic Baby Manic Instability before bedtime (gushing with delight one minute, cranky the next). But she was fairing well. Again, this was all a test — a trial run to see how travel with our baby would go. And as we pulled back into the campground, my art director had a great idea: “I’ll put Varenna to bed. You should go and photograph the canyons under the full moon.”


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